Varanasi, the spiritual epicenter of Shiva worship, harbors secrets that stir the soul. Among them is Kritivaseshwar Mahadev, a fiercely potent shrine shrouded in history and dispute. Positioned in a contested spot behind Alamgir Mosque, the deity sits openly, denied its traditional enclosure, yet radiating unmatched energy.
The Skanda Purana recounts the epic tale fueling its fame. GajAsur, the elephant demon, gained invincible might through Brahma’s boon and unleashed chaos across realms, plaguing Kashi most cruelly. Lord Shiva intervened, piercing the asura with his trident in a cataclysmic clash. Honoring the demon’s final humble request, Shiva wrapped GajAsur’s hide around his form, birthing the Kritivaseshwar lingam—symbol of mercy amid destruction.
Ranked in Kashi’s elite 14 Bhim Shivlings, this one signifies Shiva’s sacred head. Historical invasions reduced it to ruins, prompting faithful reconstruction. Now, ongoing litigation blocks full restoration, limiting pilgrim access and turning visits into arduous quests.
Mahashivratri transforms the site with breathtaking decorations, but only a handful witness it. Stories abound of profound experiences—cures, fulfillments—for those who persist. As courts deliberate, Kritivaseshwar stands defiant, a beacon of Shiva’s eternal dance of creation and annihilation.
For devotees seeking depth beyond crowded ghats, this is hallowed ground. Mahashivratri offers a rare window; will you claim the fortune of darshan at one of Kashi’s most enigmatic abodes?